Travel


31
Aug 10

Long story: the punchline

If you note the mention of a crackdown by Hafez Al-Assad in 1999 on his brother’s interests in Syria, while also noting the mention of armed clashes in Lattakia, I might perhaps take it a step further to also mention that I was just entering Lattakia by bus while Hafez was aerially-bombing the fuck out of Rifaat’s summer residence.

We were travelling from Damascus to Aleppo when we noticed plumes of smoke rising from not far off, planes swooping rather low, rather unavoidable if muffled booms, and the familiar pop-pop-pop of gunfire. It wasn’t until the next morning that we read in the English-language newspaper that Hafez had made a pre-emptive move against his brother trying to wrest the presidency in a coup.

I mention all this because a certain someone suggested we visit the Hezbollah Theme Park in South Lebanon as part of a week-long stay in Syria around the same time as we’re in Italy for the Venice Biennale next year. South Lebanon is a daytrip from Damascus, so eminently doable. There is however a part of me that questions the wisdom of:

  1. Tempting fate in a country I have narrowly missed being caught up in coup reprisals.
  2. Tempting fate by entering Lebanon through a Syrian border point.
  3. Tempting fate by entering a part of Lebanon that was until recently occupied by Syrian armed forces.
  4. Tempting fate by entering a part of Lebanon that was until recently occupied by Syrian armed forces to visit a theme park owned and managed by a known terrorist organisation.
  5. Tempting fate by attempting all this with a hebrew first name, ambiguous surname, questionable ethnicity, unknown nationality and all the while in the company of someone who would struggle to blend in with the locals.

Then again, could be fun.


12
Jul 10

Good news / bad news

The good news: It seems that Rubber is screening at this year’s Melbourne International Film Festival.

The bad news: Rubber is screening the day before I arrive there next week and again the day after I’m scheduled to fly home the following week.

The outcome: It is going to cost me a pretty penny to change my flights to fit at least one screening in while I’m in the neighbourhood.


28
Jun 10

Revisit thwarted

I went to Summersonic last year and it was amazing if way too hot.

The lineup this year looked to be just as good as last year and before you look at me with a dumbfounded look of concern for my taste in music, you should note the “… and more!” at the bottom means acts like HURTS, Stevie Wonder, Delphic, Die Antwoord, Darwin Deez and others.

I’ve been wanting to see Stevie Wonder since before we moved back to New Zealand from Canada and HURTS are… well, so very in right now. The other acts are all icing on the proverbial cake, Taylor Swift included (no, not really).

If all went to plan, I’d be heading there after my trip to Melbourne at the end of July, but alas I now cannot. Suffice to say I’m really loving my job at the moment.


4
May 10

This is happening

… and I have tickets to the Melbourne show.

I just have to book flights and the couch at Chez Yarraville and all shall be well with the world once more.


14
Mar 10

Days Six through Nine

Been a little busy since I got back from Melbourne the week before last, so here’s an unfortunately brief round-up of my final days there.

Day Six
Most of today was spent wishing the night before had never happened. I wished this through the morning trek to the farmers’ market. I wished this through the purchasing of various vegetables, plants, pie and terrine that would later be consumed that night. Hangovers have a habit of doing that to a person.

Thankfully I managed to recover enough to see the Ron Mueck exhibition at the NGV. The lifelike if unnaturally proportioned sculptures were really quite wondrous if a bit samey after a while. Although there must have been close to a dozen pieces of varying scale, it didn’t take long for the novelty of naked figures and awkwardly realistic detailing to lose its lustre. I’m glad I went and really enjoyed what I saw but a bit more variety wouldn’t have gone astray.

There was a festival of sorts being held out the back of the NGV, but I don’t think either of us was really feeling it so we soon headed off to a digital media exhibition in the Arts Centre nearby. This is what really grabbed me. AES+F’s “Last Riot” was familiar from its stint at Wellington’s City Gallery back in 2008, but other works like “Xanadu” and the silhouette lightbox were both mesmerising and engaging. The stand-out piece though was the disco room next door. In an enclosed box was a large black box hooked up to motion sensors. The basic set-up was that the more you danced the more that the box did like turn up the volume, pop out lights and other effects. It was both ridiculous and hilarious and it was a great way to end the artistic leg of the day.

What followed was dinner with “family” back at the flat. Ended up making roast beetroot salad with pumpkin seeds and goat feta, potato and sweet potato cakes, asparagus in a lemon butter sauce, baby carrots in a hazenut butter sauce, mixed quinoa with aubergine and tomato, sweetcorn cobs fried in cumin, finished off with grilled figs with goats milk chevre. We also had bok choy with soy sauce and sesame seeds ready to go but the typically Maori concern for never having enough food kinda conquered our appetites. Was a really enjoyable night and really felt in my element in the kitchen. In hindsight, I probably should have let my hosts do more of the cooking.

Day Seven
I don’t recall doing a hell of a lot this day. Mainly lounged around the flat until we headed off into the city for drinks at Madame Brussels with the lovely Claire. We did stop by this asian import place near JB Hi-Fi on Collins St, full of what didn’t appear to be entirely kosher DVDs. Went to JB and bought a few things like The September Issue and Valentino: The Last Emperor. Since we got one of our own here in Wellington, the urge to spend a lot of money at the JB’s in Melbourne has waned somewhat.

It was then that we moved onto jugs of fruity alcohol at Madame Brussels. Claire looked amazing, but then she always does (even when she’s just woken up – I don’t know how she does it), and times were good.

I think I may have had pizza when Alyssa and I finally made it back to the flat.

Day Eight
This was a weird day. Not a lot happened, really. Although I’d managed to double book myself that night I didn’t exactly make it to either. What I did do was finish watching fifth and final season of The Wire. I’d seen it before on TV, but it was good to watch it in one fell swoop. Again.

I don’t know that I was drinking that night. I may have been but I can’t rightly recall.

Day Nine
I hadn’t had much sleep the night before so was more than little ungrateful when the lanky one dragged me off the couch for huevos rancheros at Feedback (always what a man needs in the morning) before he headed off to work for the day. This was the first of a number of reluctant goodbyes that would mark the day.

The next thing I knew I was moving purposefully through customs at Wellington airport so I could inhale deeply the toxins that my body so achingly craved.

—–

I had a great time in Melbourne, but then I always do. Although the city has a lot to offer, to entertain and to enjoy what keeps me coming back again and again are the people I meet and the friends I make. I’m less interested in doing things than enjoying the good company of good people.

What I’m starting to notice though is that the number of good people I know in Melbourne is such that I now struggle to spend time with all of them while I’m in the neighbourhood. There is a fairly drastic solution and one that I know would make a few particularly happy to see happen, but one I’m loathe to commit to unless a job opens up that I’d actually be keen on over there.

Not sure when I’ll next be over there. Was hoping to be there for Massive Attack next weekend (20/21 March), but flights are prohibitively expensive and my Sydney belle has pushed her Melbourne trip back into April. April and May is looking kinda shaky with things becoming ridiculously frantic at work. Looks like it might not be until June or July that I return and I know a few people I’d like to take with me.


1
Mar 10

Day Five

Right. So, Saturday. Felt absolutely rubbish after the night before. We’re talking curled up into a ball kinda nauseous. And yet! And yet we still managed to crawl out into the overcast outside world to market with the farmers. Bought some chicken and pistachio terrine (so good), beetroot, sweetcorn and other assorted goods for events I’ll cover under Day Six.

The afternoon was all N64-ported Legend Of Zelda: Majora’s Mask. To be honest, I was still too miserable a state to play but I did help in my own way (rapid-fire walkthroughs) while Josh played instead. The game is incredibly dated (it was registered back in 2000) and the graphics really rather laughable (clipping aplenty), but it was still fun to watch.

The late afternoon was opera in the park with the MSO. It was the last of a four concert series at the Sidney Myer Bowl (I haven’t been there since Daft Punk a few years back) and the song choice seemed rather festive with Au Fond Du Temple Saint from Bizet’s Les Pecheurs Des Perles (The Pearl Fishers) a particular favourite of mine. That said, we got there when the opening act, the Melbourne Youth Orchestra, were performing a particularly Disney-esque waltz. In the break between the MYO and the MSO it started to rain and our resolve abandoned us for the tram-ride out to Carlton to drink beer with Ned and Luke and others.

Was fun although they’d already had enough to be well past us on the alcohol stakes so we soon said our goodbyes and headed off to Palm for birthday drinks with Josh and others. What I saw of the rooftop bar seemed pleasant enough and the beer was pretty drinkable. We then excused ourselves while the others went on to see Amanda Lepore.

I remember eating when we got back to the flat but not a lot more.

Suffice to say I’ve swiftly become a cheap drunk. Shameful.


1
Mar 10

Minor regrets

This makes me wish my stay in Melbourne lasted another week.


1
Mar 10

Day Four

Most of last Friday was spent nurturing a terrible hangover in the air-conditioned confines of Chez Yarraville as the heat outside was just ridiculous.

I did manage to dart out in the morning to the shops to pick up bacon but Jesus did I feel the worse for wear for it. The heat. The nausea. Too much. The savoury french toast was rather delicious though.

My night was dedicated to good food and wine with Ed and good food and wine we did enjoy. We started drinking at Von Haus, moved on to eat and drink at Bar Lourhina and then finished up drinking and smoking at Madame Brussels. Definitely be looking for a repeat with the man the next time I’m in Melbourne.

The night then finished with gin and juice back in Yarraville and an hour long phone call with a gaymer in Queensland. I don’t know who was more drunk or most of what we talked about but I do remember it took him a while to stop laughing about muh accunt.


26
Feb 10

Day Three: addendum

So much pinot gris. So very very much pinot gris. And asparagus cooked in lemon butter with grated pecorino and consumed through the awesome medium of sourdough baguette.

Ladies and gentlemen, my fair readers, I am THE drunken master in the kitchen.

Please do feel free to bask in the collected magnificence of my sojourn at Chez Yarraville.


25
Feb 10

Day Two

Today comprised mainly naps and bread and more naps with a dash of TV shows Wonder Showzen and Mad Men before heading off to Richmond to see HEALTH.

HEALTH were amazing. Loud, chaotic, near-pure noise, but amazing. They didn’t disappoint in any respect, despite the short set they played (done and dusted in 40 mins including encore). Maybe if they’d paused for breath between songs, it may have seemed to have lasted a little longer. All good though.

The only song I actually recognised from their set was “Die Slow” and they rather nicely buried that in the middle of their set. Throughout the set the skinny asian guy leapt around a lot, the ginga had the thousand yard stare, the lead vocalist carried his own and the drummer was going so ridiculously hard out.

The ears are ringing something wicked and the right ear has started to ache, but HEALTH were definitely worth the trip to Melbourne.

Now to sort out what I’ll do the rest of my time here.